Charles Darwin described Patagonia as"wretched and useless", but the attraction for him was there forever. Wallace Stegner said, "The rest of that country is notable primarily for its weather, which is violent and prolonged; its emptiness, which is almost frighteningly total; and its wind, which blows all the time in a way to stiffen your hair and rattle the eyes in your head." I visited Patagonia in 2007 and grew to love the pristine views of its never ending mountains, rivers, lakes, and grasslands. My journey ended in Buenos Aires, the bustling, cosmopolitan capital and home of the tango.